In a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the water, sugar or malt syrup, and yeast and stir together. Let stand until the mixture is very foamy, about 10 minutes.

To the yeast mixture, add the flour and salt. Mix together using a wooden spoon or turn the mixer on low speed and mix until a dough starts to form. If mixing by hand, turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead by hand until a smooth and elastic dough is formed, about 10 to 15 minutes. If using a stand mixer, continue mixing on low speed for about 10 to 15 minutes. (The dough should start to pull cleanly away from the bowl and “slap” the sides while mixing after about 8 minutes. Add another tablespoon of flour as needed.) Transfer the dough to a large lightly oiled bowl. Cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper and lightly grease the paper.

Punch down the dough and turn out onto a clean work surface. Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces. (For smaller bagels, divide into 12.) Shape each piece into a ball by cupping your hand around the dough ball and moving it in a circular pattern. (This will tighten the ball.)

Gently flatten each ball. Lightly oil your hands, then press your finger into the center and through the dough creating a small hole. Pick up the dough and begin stretching it in a circular motion, widening the hole and creating a donut shape. When the hole is about 2 inches wide, place it on the greased parchment paper, spacing each one a few inches apart. Loosely cover and let rest for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425F.

Place the water in a large wide pot and bring it to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low to maintain a simmer and stir in the sugar or syrup and baking soda.

Working with two or three at a time, add bagels to the pot of water. (They might sink to the bottom of the pot.) Cook for 1 minute. Using a spider or slotted spoon, flip them over and cook for another minute. (They should be floating at this point if they weren’t already.) Remove each bagel, letting the excess water drain off, and place it back on the baking sheet. Immediately sprinkle on or dip in the toppings of your choice, if desired.

Bake for 15 minutes. Flip the bagels over and continue baking for 5 to 10 minutes or until deep golden brown. (Flipping creates a more even bake and helps keep their round shape.) Let cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes before serving. Cool completely before storing in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Bagels freeze great! Just cut in half before freezing.