Cook 8–9 oz. dried udon noodles or spaghetti in a medium pot of boiling salted water 1 minute longer than package directions. Drain noodles in a colander and rinse under cool running water. Drizzle with a bit of vegetable oil (about 1 tsp.; this will keep the noodles from sticking) and toss to coat. Set noodles aside.

Meanwhile, slice a thin round off the bottoms of 12 oz. ripe beefsteak or heirloom tomatoes (1–2 large). Starting at cut end, grate tomatoes on the largest holes of a box grater over a large bowl until all that’s left is the flattened tomato skin and stem; discard. Add ⅓ cup creamy peanut butter, ¼ cup apple cider vinegar, ¼ cup chili crisp, 3 Tbsp. soy sauce, and 4 tsp. sugar and whisk vigorously until sauce is smooth and emulsified.

Add 4 oz. cherry tomatoes, halved, quartered if large, and reserved noodles to sauce and toss until well coated.

Arrange noodle salad on a platter and top with ⅓ cup salted roasted peanuts, preferably cocktail, and ⅓ cup store-bought fried shallots. Scatter thinly sliced scallions and coarsely chopped cilantro over.