Use a small knife to cut around and remove the tomato stems then make a small ‘X’ incision on the opposite end. Place in a medium heatproof bowl and pour over enough boiling water to cover by a couple of centimetres (an inch). Leave for about 2–3 minutes, or just until the tomato skins visibly start to peel off. Drain, then carefully remove and discard the skins. Cut the tomatoes into quarters and set aside.

Preheat the oven to its highest setting, placing a rack on the top shelf.

In a large, cast-iron pan (or ovenproof sauté pan), heat the oil over a medium-high heat. Add the onion and ⅛ teaspoon of salt, turn down the heat to medium and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and very lightly coloured. Add the garlic, ginger, green chilli, spices and tomato paste and cook for 2–3 minutes more, stirring often, until deeply red. Pour in 450ml (16fl oz) of water, then stir in the sugar, beans, tomatoes, ¾ teaspoon salt and a good grind of pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the tomatoes are only just starting to lose their shape and the sauce has thickened just slightly.

Stir in the coriander and remove from the heat. Top evenly with spoonfuls of the labneh (or cream cheese) then sprinkle with the cheddar. Bake for 12–15 minutes, or until browned and bubbling.

Meanwhile, make the topping. Add all the ingredients plus a tiny pinch of salt to a small frying pan (skillet) and place over a medium-low heat. Cook gently for about 12–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until softened and fragrant. You don’t want it to colour at all, so if it starts to bubble too much, turn down the heat to low. Transfer to a bowl.

When the beans are ready, spoon the topping all over the beans and serve warm.