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Make the rub: Preheat the oven to 140C (285F/Gas 1). Mix the cayenne, mustard powder, cumin, celery seeds, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Rub the mixture all over the brisket, massaging it into the meat.
Sear the brisket: Place a roasting tin on the hob and add a glug of olive oil. When hot, seal the beef on all sides until the spices are coloured and fragrant. Transfer to a plate.
Caramelise the onions: Add the onions, bay leaves, and sugar to the tin with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook over a medium heat until the onions are soft and caramelised. Add the tomato puree and stir for 1 minute. Pour in the lager to deglaze the pan, scraping up the bits stuck to the bottom.
Braise: Put the brisket back on top of the onions and pour the beef stock around it. Bring to the boil, then cover tightly with foil and transfer to the oven for 3 to 3.5 hours until fork tender. Baste every now and again so the meat is nicely glazed.
Rest and make the sauce: Transfer the brisket to a serving dish, cover loosely with foil, and rest for 15 to 20 minutes. Place the roasting tin on the hob over medium-high heat and reduce the sauce, stirring in the cider vinegar if using. Pour any resting juices back in.
Serve: Slice the brisket and spoon the sauce over it.