The first rise of this dough took about 6 hours in a 74°F kitchen plus another 14 hours in the refrigerator to deepen the flavor, further strengthen the gluten, and complete the doubling in size. You should expect different timing at different temps, and note that the refrigeration step is optional. The final proof consisted of 20-30 minutes rest/proofing after shaping and 1.5 minutes simmering in a baking soda-salt water solution.

Mixing and First Rise

Starting with the smaller end of the range for the water, mix the dough ingredients for several minutes until they're thoroughly combined. Add water if needed to achieve a target dough hydration that is a wetter than stiff bagel dough -- just barely dry enough to be hand kneadable. You can use a stand mixer with the dough hook attachment or mix by hand.

Cover the bowl and let the dough rest 15 minutes. Mix again on medium speed for 2-3 minutes or do a round of stretching and folding.

Transfer the dough to a straight-walled container if available, mark the level on the outside, cover, and let the dough rise until it has almost doubled in size.

Refrigerate the dough overnight for enhanced flavor -- a little more rising will happen in the refrigerator. You will work with cold dough directly from the refrigerator the next day. You can also skip the refrigeration and divide and shape the dough immediately. (Still stop the first rise just shy of doubling. The fact that the dough is warm will compensate for the reduced expansion compared with the retarded dough.)

Prep for the Boil and Bake

In a pan that is wide enough to fit 2-4 bagels/buns at once; heat the water, baking soda, and salt. Whisk to make sure everything dissolves.

Begin preheating the oven to 450°F with a steam system set up on the bottom shelf. This can be a disposable aluminum pan with a small hole poked in bottom. (Learn more about steam in this FAQ.)

Prep a large baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone mat. Don't place the boiled dough directly on your baking sheet because the alkaline solution can corrode aluminum.

Whisk an egg in a small bowl if you want a shiny crust. I did this for the buns but not the bagels.

Buns, Shaping and Baking

Divide the dough into 8 pieces (~135 grams each).

Roll the pieces into balls and place them on the lined baking sheet. Let the dough rise for 20-30 minutes while the baking-soda-salt-water solution comes to a boil. It is okay to leave the dough uncovered unless your kitchen is very drafty.

When the water is boiling, lower the heat to simmer, and gently lower several buns into the solution. (Flour your fingers or use a bench knife if necessary to pry the dough off the parchment paper.) Set a timer for 1 minute and 30 seconds. Turn the buns about halfway through.

Using a slotted spoon, lift each bun out of the solution. Let it drain a few seconds on the spoon, then place the bun back on the baking sheet.

Repeat until all the buns are boiled.

Brush with egg wash and sprinkle on pretzel salt or sesame seeds if desired.

Score an X in each bun.

Boil a cup of water in the microwave for your steam system.

Load the baking sheet into the oven and pour the cup of boiling water into the steam pan.

Bake for 15-17 minutes or until the internal temperature is over 190°F. Rotate the sheet partway through the bake if the buns are browning unevenly.

After removing from the oven, transfer the buns to a cooling rack.

Bagels, Shaping and Baking

Divide the dough into 8 pieces (~135 grams each).

Roll the pieces into balls and let the dough rest on your work surface for 10-15 minutes. It is okay to leave the dough uncovered unless your kitchen is very drafty.

Create a hole in the center of each ball by lifting it with both hands and pressing both thumbs in the middle of the ball until they meet your second and third fingers on the underside of the ball. Stretch and rotate the bagel shape until the hole in the center is about 1 inch in diameter. Set each bagel down on your work surface as you work through all eight balls. The gluten will relax a bit as you finish all eight, then return to the first bagel you shaped and re-stretch the center again. Transfer each bagel to your lined baking sheet after the second round of stretching.

Let the dough rise for another 15 minutes while the baking-soda-salt-water solution comes to a boil.

When the water is boiling, lower the heat to simmer, and gently lower several bagels into the solution. (Flour your fingers and use a bench knife if necessary to pry the dough off the parchment paper.) Set a timer for 1 minute and 30 seconds. Flip the bagels about halfway through.

Using a slotted spoon, lift each bagel out of the solution. Let it drain for a few seconds on the spoon, then place it back on the baking sheet. If you're skipping the egg wash like I did, you can sprinkle the sesame seeds on immediately, while the bagels are quite wet.

Repeat until all the bagels are boiled.

Brush with egg wash and top with salt or sesame seeds if desired.

Boil a cup of water in the microwave for your steam system.

Load the baking sheet into the oven and pour the cup of boiling water into the steam pan. Close the oven door and bake for 10-12 minutes or until the internal temperature is over 190°F. Rotate the sheet partway through the bake if the bagels are browning unevenly.

After removing from the oven, transfer the bagels to a cooling rack.

Pretzels, Shaping and Baking

To make pretzels with this dough, see the shaping and baking instructions in this pretzel recipe.

Once completely cooled, store in a closed container, bag, or beeswax wrap. After several days, the softness can be reactivated by microwaving a bun/bagel for 10-20 seconds.