Use a mortar and pestle to pound the garlic, ginger, turmeric and ½ teaspoon of sea salt to a rough paste. It does not need to be completely smooth, just well broken down so it will melt into the broth. Set aside.

Pat the chicken thighs dry with paper towel and season the skin and flesh sides lightly with salt. Heat a large, deep frying pan or wide saucepan over medium high heat. Add the vegetable oil. When the oil is hot, place the chicken thighs into the pan skin-side down. Cook for 6-8 minutes without moving them, or until the skin is deep golden and crisp and most of the fat has rendered out. Flip the chicken and cook the second side for 3-4 minutes until lightly coloured. Transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside. Leave about 1 tablespoon of the chicken fat in the pan and pour off any excess if you need to.

Turn the heat down to medium. In the same pan, add the sliced shallots. Cook, stirring often, for 2-3 minutes until they soften and start to turn translucent. Add the garlic, ginger and turmeric paste and cook for another 1-2 minutes, stirring, until the mixture is very fragrant and the raw smell of the garlic has gone. Take care not to let it brown too much.

Pour the Shaoxing wine into the pan and use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits from the base. Let it bubble for about 30 seconds. Stir in the light soy sauce, dark soy sauce and sugar. Add the chicken stock, white pepper and the bruised lemongrass stalk. Bring everything up to a gentle simmer.

Nestle the chicken thighs back into the pan, skin-side up, along with any resting juices from the plate. The chicken should sit partly above the liquid so the skin stays as crisp as possible while the flesh cooks through. Simmer uncovered for 12-15 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the broth is rich, golden and aromatic. Taste the broth and add the fish sauce, plus extra salt or fish sauce if needed. Remove the lemongrass stalk before serving if you prefer.

While the broth is simmering, combine the chopped coriander, Thai basil, mint and spring onions in a small bowl. Toss gently so the herbs are evenly mixed and ready to sprinkle.

Divide the hot jasmine rice among four deep serving bowls. Transfer the chicken to a board and slice each thigh into thick strips. Arrange the slices over the rice in each bowl, keeping the crisp skin visible on top. Ladle the golden lemongrass broth around the rice so it pools at the bottom of each bowl without completely drowning the rice. Generously scatter the herb mixture over the top. Finish with fried shallots and a drizzle of chilli oil, if you like a little heat. Serve straight away while everything is hot and fragrant.