To make the dough: Weigh your flour; or measure it by gently spooning it into a cup, then sweeping off any excess. Combine all of the dough ingredients in a bowl (or the bucket of your bread machine), and mix and knead — by hand, using a mixer, or in your bread machine set on the dough cycle — to make a smooth, very soft dough. The dough should stick a bit to the bottom of the bowl if you're using a stand mixer.

Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover, and let it rise until it's doubled in size, about 45 to 60 minutes.

Meanwhile, thoroughly drain the tomatoes, patting them dry. Use kitchen shears or a sharp knife to cut them into smaller bits. (Shears are also useful for slicing/chopping the basil.)

Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and pat it into a 22" x 8 ½" rectangle, deflating it slightly. Spread with the cheese, tomatoes, garlic, and basil.

Starting with one long edge, roll the dough into a log the long way. Pinch the edges to seal. Place the log seam-side down on a lightly greased or parchment-lined baking sheet.

Using kitchen shears, start ½" from one end and cut the log lengthwise down the center about 1" deep, to within ½" of the other end.

Keeping the cut side up, form an "S" shape. Tuck both ends under the center of the "S" to form a "figure 8;" pinch the ends together to seal. When shaping the loaf, tuck any larger pieces of tomato or basil down into the dough (to avoid char).

Cover and let rise in a warm place until double, 45 to 60 minutes. Want to add flexibility to your schedule? See "tips," below, for details on how to let the dough rise for 8 to 12 hours (or overnight).

While the loaf is rising, preheat the oven to 350°F.

Uncover the bread, and bake it for 35 to 40 minutes, tenting it with foil after 20 to 25 minutes to prevent over-browning.

Remove the bread from the oven, and transfer it to a rack to cool. Enjoy warm or at room temperature.

Storage instructions: Store, well-wrapped, at room temperature for a couple of days; freeze for longer storage.