Preheat oven to 350 degrees and set a rack in the center. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a large saucepan, set butter over low heat to start melting. When it’s about 50% melted, remove from stove and let the residual heat finish the job. Add granulated sugar, dark brown sugar and salt, and whisk into a thick, soft paste. Add milk powder, baking powder, baking soda, vanilla and eggs, and immediately whisk. Keep whisking until it’s nice and light.

Add flour and chocolate chips. Use a rubber spatula to fold, really getting around the sides and bottom, until it’s just combined but not overly mixed.

Use a cookie scoop to portion 6 generously rounded scoops of dough onto one prepared baking sheet, leaving 2 inches between each scoop. Slide into oven and bake, turning sheet around at 8 minutes, until edges are brown but centers are just barely set, 16 minutes. While first batch bakes, scoop the second batch onto the second baking sheet and slide that into the oven as soon as the first one comes out.

Let cookies cool completely on sheet, about 1 hour. You can serve the cookies at room temp, but they are at their best warmed up. To do that, arrange half the cookies on a parchment-lined baking sheet and slide into a 300-degree oven for 5 minutes. (As always, ask your host if you can borrow a baking sheet, parchment and oven space ahead of time!) Serve warm cookies with tall glasses of cold milk for dunking, then warm up the remaining cookies. Cooled cookies can be stacked in large airtight containers or zip-top bags and stored at room temperature up to 3 days.

Casey Elsass