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Get out a large, flame-safe cooking pot (with a lid) in which the chicken can fit snugly.
On a washable board, un-truss the chicken, put it breast-side down and press down until you hear the breastbone crack.
Then press down again, so that the chicken is flattened slightly.
Now cut off the ankle joints below the drumstick (but keep them).
Put the oil in the pan to heat, then brown the chicken for a few minutes breast-side down.
Turn up the heat and turn over the chicken, tossing in the feet as you do so.
Still over a vigorous heat add the wine or vermouth to the pan and let it bubble down a little before adding the leeks, carrots and celery.
Pour in enough cold water to cover the chicken, though the very top of it may poke out.
Pop in the bouquet garni or your herbs of choice, and the parsley stalks.
Bring to a bubble, clamp on the lid, turn the heat to very low and leave to cook for 1½–2 hours.
Serve the chicken and accompanying vegetables with brown basmati rice, adding a ladleful or two of liquid over each shallow bowl.