Pull a 1-pound ball of pizza dough from the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature on the counter while you prep.

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven.

Preheat the oven to 500°F. Place a pizza stone or an overturned rimmed baking sheet on the rack.

Thinly slice 4 inches of the dark greens of 1 large leek. If the slices are dirty, wash and pat dry.

Cut the white and light green parts of the leek crosswise into 4-inch pieces, discarding the hairy root end. Now slice the 4-inch pieces in half lengthwise, and thinly slice or julienne them, creating lots of very thin strands. If the leeks are dirty, wash and pat dry.

Thinly slice 4 ounces mozzarella cheese. Cube 4 ounces fontina cheese.

Smash and peel 3 garlic cloves.

Strip the leaves from 5 thyme sprigs—you'll sprinkle these on at the end.

In a small skillet, heat a few big glugs of olive oil over medium heat. Add the leek greens and smashed garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Cook until the leeks are softened and translucent (do not brown), 3 to 4 minutes. Add the remaining 4 thyme sprigs and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer and cook until the cream has reduced and slightly thickened, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and zest 1 lemon directly into the pan. (Halve the lemon and reserve for serving.) Stir in the reserved thyme leaves. Lightly smash the now-softened garlic cloves with the back of a spoon. Refrigerate until cool, about 10 minutes.

In a small bowl, toss the sautéed leeks with a few big glugs of olive oil—they should be well coated. Season with salt and pepper.

Generously dust the back of an overturned large rimmed baking sheet or a pizza peel with semolina or fine cornmeal. With floured hands, stretch the dough to a 9- to 15-inch rectangle and place it on the prepared baking sheet. If the dough is mobile and not sticking, it it doesn't shake freely, it's impossible to slide it onto the pizza stone in the oven! Continue to shake the dough from time to time as you build the pizza to ensure it's loosey-goosey.

Pile the tangle of leeks on top of the cheese layer. Drizzle the whole pie, including the crust, with some olive oil and sprinkle with more Parmigiano (careful not to get olive oil on the peel or baking sheet, or the dough may stick).

Open the oven door. Starting from the back of the pizza stone or baking sheet, slide and shake the pizza off whatever you built it on in one swift movement so that the dough releases onto the stone or sheet in the oven.

Bake until the crust is blistered and the leeks are frizzled and browned on the edges, 16 to 20 minutes. If the crust is browning more on one side than the other, rotate halfway through.

Remove from the oven and top with a final drizzle of olive oil, a grating of Parm, and lots of black pepper. Sprinkle with the reserved thyme leaves. Let the pizza cool for a couple of minutes, and then cut it into pieces and serve with the lemon halves for squeezing on top!