Note: you’ll need a specific type of Lao Gan Ma chilli oil to make this, called “kohlrabi, peanuts and tofu in chilli oil”. If you use another type, add it a tablespoon at a time until it tastes just right to you.

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2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns

3 medium aubergines (900g)

Rapeseed oil, for frying

2 celery sticks (300g), cut at a steep angle into 2cm pieces, any leaves reserved

1 tsp fennel seeds

2 tbsp light soy sauce

2 tbsp rice vinegar

4 tbsp Lao Gan Ma kohlrabi, peanuts and tofu in chilli oil, or other chilli oil

Cooked jasmine rice, to serve

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1. Lightly bash the peppercorns in a mortar – or skip this step if you’re happy (as I am) to encounter a feisty little crunch in the finished dish. Cut the aubergines in half lengthways, then cut each half into four long wedges. You’ll be frying them in batches, so get a plate and a pair of tongs ready to move them around.

2. Put two tablespoons of oil in a wide, nonstick pan or pot for which you have a lid and set it over a medium to high heat. When the oil is shimmering hot, place the wedges of aubergine cut side down in the pan – as many as will fit next to each other – and cook for two to three minutes, until golden. Turn them over, add another tablespoon of oil, fry the aubergine wedges for another two minutes, then transfer to the plate. Fry the remaining aubergines, adding a little oil each time you add or turn them. Don’t worry if they’re not fully cooked through: they’ll be braised to softness shortly.

3. Put two more tablespoons of oil in the pan over a medium heat and, when hot, add the celery and pop on the lid. Cook for five minutes, tossing occasionally, then stir in the Sichuan pepper and fennel seeds, pop on the lid again and leave to cook for another five minutes.

4. Put the aubergines back in the pan, add the soy sauce, vinegar and chilli oil, then gently stir to coat everything in the sauce. Add five tablespoons of water, pop on the lid, turn down the heat to low and leave to blip away for 15 minutes, so the flavours mingle. Top with the reserved celery leaves, if you have any, and serve with fresh, hot jasmine rice.