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Combine tomatoes, apples, raisins, sugars, vinegar, lemon juice/zest, and spices in a large heavy pot. Stir well.
Bring to a boil, then reduce heat. Simmer uncovered, stirring often, until thick and glossy, about 1 to 1 ½ hours. It should mound on a spoon.
Stir in butter or suet, if using, during the last 15 minutes.
Ladle hot mixture into sterilized pint jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Wipe rims, seal with lids.
Process in a boiling-water canner for 20 minutes (adjust for altitude).
Cool jars 24 hours, check seals, and store in a cool pantry for up to 12 months.