Skip this step if you’re using leftover risotto. Get a large saucepan over medium heat and add the tablespoon of olive oil. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes until it starts to soften. Add the crushed garlic and stir through the onion, then add 2 cups of arborio rice. Stir the rice through the onion and garlic for a minute, then add the wine if you’re using it. Let the wine bubble up for a minute, so the alcohol evaporates. At this point, you can start adding the stock, one ladleful at a time. Stir the rice until the stock has been absorbed into the rice, then go in with another ladleful. Continue like this until all the stock has been used up. The rice at this point should be al dente – cooked, with a little bite in the middle. Add the diced butter and grated parmesan and mix through to melt into the risotto. Give it a taste and add the salt if you think it needs it. Line an oven tray with baking paper, then spread the risotto out onto it, then let it cool in the fridge for at least 1 hour. PRO TIP: You can put it in the freezer for 30 minutes if you have space to speed this up.

Line a tray with baking paper and put the egg, flour and breadcrumbs into three separate bowls. Scoop up about two tablespoons of cooled risotto into your hand. Flatten it, then add a bit of mozzarella into the middle. Enclose the cheese in the rice by rolling it into a ball in your hands. Set aside on the lined tray and repeat with the remaining risotto balls.

Dip each ball first into the flour and give it a roll around. You just want it to be a light coating, so shake off the excess before you add it to the egg bowl. Toss to coat in the egg, let the excess drip off and then transfer it to the breadcrumbs. Toss it through the breadcrumbs, making sure it’s coated evenly. Transfer to the lined tray and continue with the rest of the risotto balls. I like to pop them in the fridge at this point for about 10 minutes while the oil heats up, just to help them firm up a little so they hold their shape better when frying. PRO TIP: Use one hand for the dry coating (flour and breadcrumbs) and one for the egg, to prevent super sticky fingers.

Pour enough oil into a large pot so that it comes about ⅓ of the way up the side. Heat the oil to 180C/360F (using a thermometer is the best here – or stick the handle of a wooden spoon into the oil – if the oil bubbles against the handle you know it’s ready). Lower three risotto balls into the oil (you don’t want the pot crowded or the arancini won’t crisp up) and cook, turning occasionally, for about 5 minutes or until golden brown and crispy. Transfer to a wire rack then repeat with the rest of the arancini. Serve while still hot, crispy and gooey in the middle.