First prepare the pickle. Finely slice a third of the celery, pop it in a small bowl with the rice vinegar and two tablespoons of mirin, stir and put to one side. Chop the remaining celery stalks into small, ½cm dice and set aside.

Put the mushrooms in a heatproof measuring jug, pour over 750ml just-boiled water and set aside while you prepare all the other ingredients.

When the mushrooms are cool enough to handle, squeeze out any water and put them to one side. Carefully and slowly pour the mushroom stock into another jug, leaving behind any grit at the bottom of the first jug, then stir in the miso and two tablespoons of mirin.

Put the oil in a large pan on a medium heat and, when it’s hot, add the onion, spring onion whites, garlic and salt, and cook, stirring so it doesn’t colour, for four minutes.

Add the diced celery and ginger, fry for five minutes, again stirring, then add the rice, mushroom stock and another 600ml water.

Bring to a boil, skimming off any scum, if you wish, then pop on a lid, cocked, and leave to simmer for 30 minutes.

While the congee is simmering, make the braised mushrooms. Slice the drained soaked mushrooms, then put them in a small saucepan with the dark and light soy sauces and the remaining two tablespoons of mirin. Bring slowly to a boil on a low heat, then turn down to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, until the liquid glazes the mushrooms and there’s no liquid left at the bottom of the pan.

Ladle the congee into individual bowls, layer on a quarter of the braised mushrooms, a little celery pickle, the reserved spring onions greens and fried onions, if using, and serve hot.