For the best results, use high-quality, ripe, in-season fruit with a fragrant aroma and flesh that yields slightly when gently pressed. Using a metal baking pan on the cooler side of the grill won't harm the pan, but you can use a disposable aluminum pan if preferred; do not use a glass dish. Serve as a side for grilled pork or lamb or use the fruit in one of the recipes that follow.

Brush cut side of fruit with melted butter.

FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.

FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to high; cover; and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s).

Clean and oil cooking grate. Arrange fruit cut side down on hotter side of grill and cook (covered if using gas) until grill marks have formed, 5 to 7 minutes, moving fruit as needed to ensure even cooking.

Transfer fruit cut side up to 13 by 9-inch baking pan and cover loosely with aluminum foil. Place pan on cooler side of grill. If using gas, turn primary burner to medium. Cover and cook until fruit is very tender and paring knife slips in and out with little resistance, 10 to 15 minutes. When cool enough to handle, discard skins, if desired. Let cool completely. Serve.

Achieving Perfectly Grilled Stone Fruit