Set an oven rack 10 inches or so from the broiler. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Trim the base of the cauliflower so it can sit flat.

Flip the cauliflower base-side up and cut a deep “X” into the base, stopping when you reach the stems or the florets. This helps the core and base cook at the same rate as the rest of the head.

Rub the cauliflower all over with the olive oil, then season the cauliflower all over with the salt.

Set the cauliflower in a large, heavy ovenproof skillet (11- to 13-inch works best), and place in the oven.

Roast to soften the cauliflower (it’ll go from white to cream in color), 30 to 35 minutes.

Pour ½ cup of water directly into the skillet and roast another 20 to 25 minutes until the water has evaporated and the cauliflower has patches of light golden brown. It should be just tender enough to be easily pierced with the tip of a sharp knife.

While the cauliflower is roasting, combine the sauce ingredients (including the finely grated zest and the lime juice) in a blender, and blend on high speed until completely smooth, about one minute.

When the cauliflower is tender, remove it from the oven and heat the broiler.

Use a flexible spatula to rub the top and sides of the cauliflower (don’t neglect those lower sides!) with the blended sauce mixture.

Broil the cauliflower for 10 to 12 minutes, basting it after five minutes with the juices that have accumulated in the skillet. Try your best to get that flavorful liquid in all its nooks and crannies, and cook until the top has spots of black char.

Serve hot or warm.