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Be sure to use very ripe, heavily speckled (or even black) bananas in this recipe. Use a potato masher to thoroughly mash the bananas. The test kitchen's preferred loaf pan measures 8½ by 4½ inches; if you use a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan, start checking for doneness 5 minutes earlier than advised in the recipe. We place the loaf pan on a rimmed baking sheet in case the batter overflows in the oven.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 8½ by 4½-inch loaf pan with vegetable oil spray.
Whisk flour, baking soda, and salt together in bowl. Whisk bananas, brown sugar, melted butter, and eggs in large bowl until thoroughly combined, making sure to break up any clumps of brown sugar with whisk. Add flour mixture to banana mixture and whisk gently until just combined (batter will be lumpy).
Place prepared pan on rimmed baking sheet. Transfer batter to prepared pan and sprinkle granulated sugar over top. Bake until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 1 hour 10 minutes.
Let bread cool in pan on wire rack for 30 minutes. Tilt pan and gently remove bread. Let bread continue to cool on wire rack at least 30 minutes longer. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Cooled bread can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 5 days.)
The Perfect Overripe Banana