To make the natural cola syrup: Combine water, lemon zest, lime zest, orange zest, cinnamon, bitter orange peel, coriander seed, nutmeg, and gum arabic (if using) in a large saucepan. Whisk together until the gum arabic dissolves. Stir in sugar and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Boil for 1 minute.
Remove from heat and stir in the lemon, lime, and orange juices, along with browning sauce and vanilla. Let cool, then strain.
To mix with seltzer: Pour ½ cup cola syrup into a tall glass. Add 1 ½ cups seltzer and stir until just blended. Add ice and serve.
To carbonate with a siphon: Combine 3 ¼ cups water and ¾ cup cola syrup in a 1-quart siphon. Charge with CO2 according to the manufacturer's directions. Siphon charged sodas can be stored in the siphon in a refrigerator for up to 5 days. Dispense as desired into tall glasses filled with ice and serve.
