Strip the leaves off the stems of the Swiss chard. Trim off the dry ends of the stems and cut the stems into bite-sized pieces. Roughly chop the leaves.
In a small bowl, combine the coriander, turmeric, chili, cumin and black pepper.
In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, combine the ghee, onion, garlic, ginger, and Swiss chard stems. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant and the onions start to frizzle and become golden brown along the edges, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add the spice mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Add the chickpeas, a large pinch of salt, and the water. Bring to a simmer and add the Swiss chard leaves. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leaves are tender and the gravy has reduced and thickened, about 10 minutes.
Remove from the heat, add the cilantro, lemon juice, and butter. Taste and adjust with more salt or lemon juice if needed. Serve over rice with a large dollop of yogurt.
