SERVES 4 • TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR (PLUS 30 MINUTES TO 6 HOURS LENTIL SOAKING TIME)

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120g red lentils (masoor dal)

60g split yellow pigeon peas (toor dal, see note)

4 cups (32 ounces) vegetable stock

½ teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons kosher salt

1½ teaspoons ground turmeric

2 teaspoons coriander seeds (see note)

1 teaspoon cumin seeds (see note)

3 tablespoons ghee (or a neutral oil, like canola)

12 to 16 fresh curry leaves, patted dry if necessary

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

2 shallots, finely chopped ½ teaspoon Kashmiri chili powder (see note)

2 plum tomatoes, cored and diced

225 g lumache pasta (a.k.a. pipe rigate; or use ditalini or medium shells)

1 cup roughly chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems, plus more for serving

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice Plain whole-milk yogurt, for serving

Tomato or garlic achaar, for serving (optional; see note)

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1. Rinse the lentils and peas in a fine-mesh strainer until the water runs clear. To cook on the stovetop, soak the rinsed lentils and peas in cold water for at least 30 minutes and up to 6 hours, then drain and transfer to a medium saucepan along with the stock, 1½ teaspoons of the salt, and 1 teaspoon of the turmeric.

   Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are cooked through and starting to fall apart, 30 to 40 minutes; it’s okay if not all of the liquid has been absorbed. (To use a pressure cooker, transfer the rinsed lentils and peas to an electric pressure cooker—like an Instant Pot—along with the stock, 1½ teaspoons of the salt, and 1 teaspoon of the turmeric. Cook on high pressure for 20 minutes and allow to naturally release for 10 minutes. Release the pressure and keep warm.)

2. Meanwhile, bring 3 quarts of water and 2 tablespoons of the salt to a boil in a pot.

3. Use a spice grinder or mortar and pestle to pulse or pound the coriander and cumin seeds until very coarsely ground (see note).

4. Heat the ghee in a Dutch oven or large pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add the curry leaves, mustard seeds, and crushed coriander-cumin mixture and cook, stirring often, until fragrant and the coriander and cumin turn a shade darker, 30 to 45 seconds. Add the shallots and cook, stirring often, until golden around the edges, 4 to 7 minutes. Add the chili powder and remaining ½ teaspoon of turmeric and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Stir in 1½ cups of water, the tomatoes, and the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a simmer, then cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes start to break down, 4 to 7 minutes. Stir in the cooked lentil mixture and any residual cooking liquid, cover, and reduce the heat to medium-low. (The sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months. Reheat before proceeding with step 5 and note that it may tighten up quite a bit, so will need to be thinned with some pasta cooking water before serving.)

5. Add the pasta to the boiling water (remember, it’s only half the package!) and cook for 1 minute less than the low end of the package instructions. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta, shaking off the excess water, and immediately transfer it to the pot with the lentil mixture. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring often, until the pasta is firm and meaty (al dente), 2 to 4 minutes. (If necessary, add the reserved pasta water 2 tablespoons at a time to loosen the sauce to your desired consistency.)

6. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the cilantro and lemon juice, then transfer the pasta and dal to a serving bowl or individual bowls. Dollop with yogurt, sprinkle with more cilantro, add a spoonful of achaar, if desired, and serve.

Dal Note: In place of the yellow pigeon peas you can use split yellow peas—just note they’ll likely make the dal thicker. Use hot water or reserved pasta water to thin the dal to your desired consistency.

Kashmiri Chili Powder Note: This spice really shines in this dish, and you can also use it for the Keema Bolognese. But hot paprika will do in a pinch.

Cumin and Coriander Note: Whole spices are preferable because they’re more potent and offer textural pops of spice, but you can also use ground cumin and coriander, reducing to ¾ teaspoon ground cumin and 1 teaspoon ground coriander. If you don’t have a mortar and pestle or spice grinder, you can put the seeds on a cutting board and use the bottom edge of a small pot to grind them.

Pashman, Dan. Anything's Pastable: 81 Inventive Pasta Recipes for Saucy People (p. 47). HarperCollins. Kindle Edition.