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Put the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot on a medium-high heat.
Add the mushrooms, season, then cook, stirring occasionally, until they’re evenly and nicely browned – 12-18 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil.
If using the greens, quickly blanch them (for a minute and a half to two minutes for the thick-stemmed likes of Chinese broccoli or pak choi, about a minute for leafy greens such as kale). Lift out using tongs or a slotted spoon, and set aside.
Add the noodles to the boiling water, and boil until cooked through (each type of noodle will vary, so follow the package instructions). Drain and rinse under cold water.
Once the mushrooms are nicely browned and cooked through, add the garlic and stir to cook for a minute or two.
Add the soy sauce, vinegar and 750ml water, bring to a simmer, then take off the heat.
Add the sesame oil and ginger, taste the sauce and adjust with more salt, soy or vinegar as required.
To serve, divide the noodles between four bowls, ladle some hot broth into each bowl and top with some of the mushrooms.
Scatter the sesame seeds (if using) and chives over the top and serve with the greens alongside for dipping.