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Preheat the oven to 200C (400F / Gas 6). Bake the potatoes in their skins for 1-1.25 hours until tender the whole way through.
Remove the flesh from the skins while still warm and mash until smooth. A potato ricer works best. Mix in the ricotta, a pinch of salt and white pepper and the flour. Make a well in the middle, add the beaten egg and combine with floured hands. Work in the thyme leaves until a smooth dough forms. Do not overwork it or the dough will end up too dense.
Cut the dough in half. Roll each piece into a long cigar shape about 1.5cm thick. Using the back of a floured knife, cut into 2cm pieces. Press each one in the centre with your floured finger to make a dent that holds more sauce.
Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Add the gnocchi, tilting the pan side to side to stop them sticking. Simmer for 1.5-2 minutes until they start to float. Drain and leave to steam-dry for 1-2 minutes.
Heat a frying pan over medium-high heat with a little olive oil. Add the gnocchi with a pinch of salt and black pepper. Sauté for 1-2 minutes on each side until nicely coloured.
Add the peas with a knob of butter and the thyme leaves. Toss to heat through, then add the lemon zest. Serve with grated Parmesan cheese.