Submerge the ham hock in a large pan of cold water, cover and bring to a boil.

Once the water is bubbling, drain it off – this will remove any excess salt from the ham.

Cover the ham again with cold water, then add the onion, cider and peppercorns, pop the lid back on and bring to a boil.

Turn down the heat to a simmer and cook gently for 90 minutes, topping up with boiling water as necessary.

Drain, reserving the braising liquid, and transfer the ham to a rack in a roasting dish.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6.

Spoon enough mustard over the hock to cover it generously, then pat the sugar all over it, too.

Reserve 500ml of the braising liquid for the lentils, then pour enough of the remaining liquid into the dish around, but not touching, the ham, to fill it by several inches.

Roast for 40-50 minutes, until the meat is caramelised on the outside and tender and falling apart underneath.

Turn off the oven, cover the meat with foil and leave in the oven with the door ajar to keep warm.

Meanwhile, set a large saucepan over a high heat, then turn down the heat to medium, pour in the olive oil and saute the onion, carrots and celery for 10 minutes, until soft and translucent.

Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the garlic and bay leaves, and cook for a few minutes.

Add the harissa and lentils, stir for another minute, then pour in the reserved braising liquid and 500ml water, and bring to a boil.

Turn down the heat to a low simmer and cook, covered, for 25-30 minutes, until the lentils are tender.

They should be brothy; if they look dry, loosen with a few more ladles of the ham cooking water.

Season with salt and pepper, some lemon juice and a few tablespoons of olive oil, then stir in most of the parsley.

When you’re ready to eat, ladle the lentils into bowls and lay slices of the ham to one side of them.

Spoon over some creme fraiche and a dollop of mustard, then scatter over the remaining parsley and a little lemon zest.

Season with lots of black pepper and serve with steamed greens or a crisp salad.