To make the preferment, in the bowl of a stand mixer, stir together both flours, the sugar, yeast, salt and 1 cup water. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour; the mixture will resemble a thick, bubbly batter.

To make the dough, to the preferment, add the flour, oil, salt and 1 cup water; stir to roughly combine. Attach the bowl and dough hook to the mixer. Mix on low until well combined, about 2 minutes, then increase to medium-low and mix until an elastic, webby dough forms, 8 to 10 minutes; scrape the sides of the bowl and push the dough off the hook a few times during mixing. Scrape the sides of the bowl and gather the dough in the center of the bowl. Cover and let rise at room temperature until doubled, about 1½ hours. (If making ahead, let rise for about 30 minutes, then refrigerate for up to 24 hours.)

Generously flour the counter and a rimmed baking sheet. Using floured hands and a bowl scraper or silicone spatula, scrape the dough out onto the counter; if the dough was refrigerated, it’s fine to work with it while it is cold. The dough will be very sticky. Dust with flour, then use a floured metal bench scraper or chef’s knife to divide the dough into 4 portions. Flour the cut sides of each piece of dough.

Form each portion into a taut ball by cupping your hands around the base of the dough, slightly cradling it. Rotate and drag the dough along the counter, allowing the base to catch on the surface to create tension that pulls the dough into a tighter round. Repeat a few more times, until the dough forms a relatively uniform ball. Transfer to the baking sheet, spacing the portions evenly. Dust the dough balls with flour, then cover with a kitchen towel. Let rise at room temperature until doubled, 1 to 1½ hours if the dough was room temperature before portioning, or about 2 hours if it was refrigerated. (If you intend to save any portions for baking in the next day or two, let rise for only 30 minutes, then transfer to a 3- to 4-cup plastic container with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate for up to 48 hours). The dough now is ready to shape and bake.