Cut the chicken into 1-inch pieces and add them to a bowl. You can leave the chicken whole if you prefer or if you are using bone-in pieces.

Scatter ½ teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon ground cumin, ¼ teaspoon ground coriander, ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric, ¼ teaspoon black pepper, and ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper over the chicken. Toss well and set aside to marinate for at least 20 minutes.

Make ahead: The chicken can be left to marinate for up to 24 hours; it should be covered and stored in the refrigerator.

Add garlic, ginger, onion, and ½ cup of water to a blender or food processor. Blend until mostly smooth. You can also use an immersion blender with a cup attachment.

Heat the oil or ghee in a wide skillet (with a lid) over medium-high heat. Arrange the marinated chicken in the pan in one layer and brown on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove the chicken from the pan and place the skillet back on the heat.

Add the onion-ginger mixture and cook, stirring often, until all the water evaporates, about 5 minutes.

Stir in the remaining ½ teaspoon ground cumin, ½ teaspoon coriander, and ¼ teaspoon turmeric over the onion-ginger mixture and cook for about 20 seconds. Stir in the tomato paste, turn the heat down to medium-low, and cook another minute.

Add the yogurt, a tablespoon at a time, stirring it into the sauce before adding any more. Adding the cream slowly prevents it from curdling.

Return the chicken pieces and any accumulated juices to the pan, along with the remaining 1 cup of water and ¾ teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil, turn the heat down to a simmer, and cover with a lid. Simmer, covered, for 20 minutes.

Remove the lid and stir in the Garam Masala and cream. Taste the sauce and add the final ¼ teaspoon of salt if you feel that it is needed (we almost always add it).

Turn the heat back to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has reduced and thickened, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve with fresh cilantro scattered on top.