Trim the root end (if there is a bulb) and wash ramps very thoroughly (see Nerd Tips above). Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil, and set aside a bowl of very cold water with lots of ice. Blanch ramps in boiling water for just 30 seconds then remove them and plunge them in the ice water to stop the cooking (this is called ’shocking’). Drain and squeeze out as much water as possible. Spread ramps out on paper towel to allow to dry a bit more.

If you are using a food processor, roughly chop the ramps and add them to the bowl along with the butter, lemon zest and juice. Process until they reach the texture you want.

If you’re not using a processor, chop the ramps finely and place in a bowl with butter, lemon zest and juice. Mix until well combined (you could also use a stand mixer with the paddle attachment).

Add salt and pepper, tasting as you go.

You can pack compound butter into air-tight containers (I love these little Weck jars) or even ramekins and store them in the refrigerator for about a week. The traditional method is to roll the butter into logs, either in parchment or plastic wrap, so they can be chilled and sliced. You can freeze the rolls for months and just slice off what you need and re-wrap well.