Cut the coarse dark green parts of the leeks off. (Freeze for veggie stock!) Then cut the root ends off. Slice the leek lengthwise, revealing layers of leek inside. Now thinly slice the leeks crosswise, making little half moons. Place the sliced leeks in a bowl of water, and move them around with your fingers, letting the dirt fall to the bottom. Empty the dirty water and rinse the leeks in a colander under running water once more.

Cook the bacon until rendered and crispy. Crumble once cooled and set aside.

To the reserved bacon fat, add the leeks and a good pinch of salt. Sauté the leeks until they begin to get tender, about three minutes. Add the mushrooms and keep sautéing another three or four minutes, until the mushrooms darken and shrivel. Add the garlic and sauté 30 more seconds, until fragrant. Zest the lemon right into the pan and give everything another pinch of salt.

In the meantime, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the angel hair until al dente, just about three minutes. Using tongs, transfer about half of the pasta into the pan, along with a half cup of pasta water. Juice half of the lemon into the pasta. Reserve another full cup of pasta water before draining the rest. Add enough angel hair and starchy water to the dish until it’s to your liking. I had a bit of plain pasta leftover, which I’ll save for the kids later on. Oh, nestle that crispy bacon back in, for the love.

Garnish with parsley and parmesan and more lemon wedges, and perhaps a drizzle of your best oil!

Serves 4.