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Heat oil in a very hot pan and sear beef in batches until deeply browned. Remove and skim to decide how much fat to keep.
In the same fat, fry ginger and scallion whites briefly. Return beef. Add five spice, Kashmiri chilli powder, and sweet paprika. Bloom until fragrant. Season with soy sauce (aiming for 1% total salt). Add water and simmer 60–90 minutes until beef is tender.
Prepare pickles: In a hot pan with reserved beef fat, add ginger and scallion whites (30 seconds). Add hot pickled chillies, then mild pickled chillies and capers. Off heat, fold in the vinegar-pickled items (gherkin and pearl onions). Remove and set aside.
Cook pasta directly in the same pan: add a little beef-fat from the sauce, toss pasta to coat, then ladle in meat sauce. Top with boiling water and cook like a risotto, stirring and agitating to release starch. Add more water as needed.
When pasta is al dente and sauce is thick and glossy, turn off the heat. Add half the pickle mix and adjust seasoning with black vinegar and black pepper.
Serve topped with remaining pickles and scallion greens.