Put the 80ml oil in a medium saucepan for which you have a lid on a medium heat. Once it’s hot, add the garlic and cook, stirring, for two minutes.

Add the cherry tomatoes and a teaspoon and three-quarters of salt and leave to cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes, until the tomatoes are soft.

Stir in the tomato paste, then add the spelt and 750ml water, then cover the pan and leave to cook for 35-40 minutes, until the spelt is cooked – test by biting into one grain: it should be tender but not chalky inside, and the mixture should be a little loose, a bit like a thick soup. If it’s too thick, add a little water; if it’s too watery, simmer with the lid off for three to five minutes longer, to reduce and thicken.

While the spelt is cooking, make the pickled onions and tahini. Put the sliced onion in a small bowl with three tablespoons of the lemon juice and a teaspoon of salt.

Scrunch with your (clean) hands until the onion has wilted, then stir in the dill and put to one side to pickle.

To make the chipotle tahini, put the tahini in a small blender with the remaining tablespoon of oil, the last tablespoon and a half of lemon juice, the chipotle paste, maple syrup, a quarter-teaspoon of salt and six tablespoons of water, and blitz until smooth and fluffy.

When the spelt is ready, divide it between four shallow bowls and top each serving with a healthy dollop of chipotle tahini and a big pinch of pickled dilly onions.