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Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Line a baking sheet with foil or parchment.
Cut 8 small, shallow incisions into each piece of citrus, and insert a clove into each cut. Set them on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 80 to 90 minutes. They’ll be very soft to the touch.
Once the citrus is roasted, stir together the water and all of the spices in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer and reduce by half, about 15 to 20 minutes.
While it reduces, in a separate, larger pot, bring the port to a light simmer. If you wish to burn away some of the spirit as the historical recipe states, carefully light it with a lighter. Be very careful if you do this, it is very flammable.
When the port simmers, add in the water and spices and the roasted citrus and simmer for another 10 minutes. Whisk in the lemon juice and sugar until the sugar is dissolved.
Take it off the heat and serve it forth right away, or you can let it sit covered in the fridge overnight to let the flavors really develop. The next day, reheat it until it’s 'smoking', add rum or brandy if desired, and serve it forth.