Whisk 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon soy sauce, 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon oyster sauce, and 5 teaspoons white wine vinegar together in small bowl and set aside.

Cut 1 pound beef tenderloin, trimmed, into 2-inch-long, ½-inch-wide strips.

Heat empty 14-inch flat-bottom wok over high heat until just beginning to smoke.

Drizzle 1½ teaspoons vegetable oil around perimeter of wok and heat until smoking.

Add half of beef and use tongs to break up any meat that clumps.

Cook, without stirring, until beef is browned on bottom, about 1 minute, then stir and cook until beef is browned around edges, about 1 minute longer.

Transfer beef to medium bowl.

Wipe wok clean and repeat with 1½ teaspoons oil and remaining beef.

Wipe wok clean, then add remaining 1 teaspoon oil; heat over high heat until just beginning to smoke.

Add 1 small red onion, halved and sliced through root end into ¾-inch‑thick pieces, and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to brown, about 1 minute.

Add 2 minced garlic cloves and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Transfer to bowl with beef.

Return wok to high heat, add soy sauce mixture, and bring to simmer.

Cook until sauce is thickened slightly, about 1 minute.

Add beef mixture and simmer, stirring occasionally, until sauce is thick enough to coat ingredients but still pools slightly at bottom of wok, 1 to 2 minutes.

Off heat, add 2 plum tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into ¾-inch-thick wedges, and 2 ají amarillo chiles, stemmed, halved, seeded, and sliced lengthwise, and toss to combine.

Gently fold in 8 ounces cooked french fries.

Transfer to platter, garnish with 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, and serve.