Rinse marrow bones, short ribs, oxtail and brisket under cold running water, then carefully add them to a stockpot or large saucepan of boiling water. Return to the boil, then strain (discard water) rinse meat and bones under cold running water.

Preheat a heavy-based frying pan and grill onions and ginger until charred (5-7 minutes).

Dry-roast spices until fragrant (5 minutes), then tie in a piece of muslin.

Bring 7.5 litres water to the boil in a large saucepan or stockpot, add meat and bones, onion and ginger, then season with sugar and 2 tbsp salt. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to medium and simmer, skimming often, until well flavoured, transferring brisket to refrigerator after 1 hour of cooking (2½-3 hours or longer for deeper flavour). Add spices and stand to infuse (1 hour).

Remove meat and bones from stock (discard ribs) and plunge in cold water to cool, then refrigerate until required. Thinly slice brisket across the grain and set aside. Scoop out bone marrow and break oxtail meat into small pieces and reserve to serve.

Strain broth then return 6 litres (freeze remaining) and the ginger and spice bag to a clean saucepan, add fish sauce, bring to the boil, then simmer over low heat until ready to serve.

Thinly slice beef rump, and thinly slice spring onion tops and cut white ends into small batons.

Arrange bean sprouts, herbs, lime or lemon cheeks, and sliced chillies on a plate.

Divide noodles among bowls then, working with a portion at a time, blanch by plunging into boiling water (5 seconds), then return to bowls. Top with sliced beef, spring onion, white onion and coriander, ladle in hot broth and stir. Serve hot with oxtail meat, bone marrow, bean sprouts, herbs, lemon or lime cheeks, chillies and sauces.