The purpose of the 3 cups of chiles in this recipe is mainly for dramatic presentation. If you cut down on the quantity, we won’t make a fuss. This recipe is from A Very Chinese Cookbook: 100 Recipes from China and Not China (But Still Really Chinese).

Whisk cornstarch, flour, and baking powder together in bowl. Whisk in water until smooth, then refrigerate for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, toss chicken, soy sauce, and Shaoxing wine in second bowl; cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Set second wire rack in second sheet and line with triple layer of paper towels. Add oil to large Dutch oven until it measures about 1½ inches deep and heat over medium-high heat to 400 degrees.

Whisk batter to recombine. Add chicken and toss to coat. Using hands, remove half of chicken from batter and place in single layer on unlined rack. Let rest for 1 minute to allow excess batter to drip off. Working quickly, use spider skimmer or slotted spoon to lower chicken pieces into hot oil. Using tongs or cooking chopsticks, separate pieces so they fry individually. Fry chicken until light golden brown, about 2 minutes. Adjust burner, if necessary, to maintain oil temperature between 375 and 400 degrees. Using spider skimmer, transfer chicken to towel-lined rack. Return oil to 400 degrees and repeat with remaining chicken; transfer to rack.

Return oil to 400 degrees over medium-high heat. Working in 2 batches, fry chicken a second time until deep golden brown and crisp, 2 to 4 minutes; return chicken to rack lined with fresh paper towels.

Whisk chili flakes, sugar, salt, and monosodium glutamate, if using, together in small bowl. Measure out and reserve ¼ cup frying oil; discard remaining oil or save for another use.

Heat empty 14-inch flat-bottomed wok over medium-high heat until just beginning to smoke. Reduce heat to medium-low, drizzle reserved oil around perimeter of wok and heat until just smoking. Add garlic, scallions, and ginger and cook, tossing constantly, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add chiles and peppercorns and cook, tossing constantly, until just toasted, about 1 minute. Add chicken and sprinkle spice mix evenly over top. Cook, tossing constantly, until chicken is well coated, about 1 minute. Off heat, add cilantro and gently toss to incorporate. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve.