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If using dried beans, soak them overnight in plenty of cold water, then drain.
Put the dried beans in a large pan and add cold water to cover by about 3cm. Bring to a boil, then simmer gently until soft.
Alternatively, drain the tinned beans into a large pan with about half of their liquid, then heat up gently.
Toast the cumin seeds in a dry frying pan until aromatic, then pound them with garlic and salt to make a paste.
Fry the onion in olive oil until softened. Add the tomato and chilli, if using, and fry for another five minutes.
Mash about a quarter of the beans to help thicken the sauce. Stir in the onions, tomatoes, and garlic paste, and cook gently for about 10 minutes.
Add a squeeze of lemon juice and season to taste.
Serve sprinkled with chopped flat-leaf parsley and more extra-virgin olive oil, with warm flatbreads, lemon wedges, salad, pickles, etc., on the side as desired.