Zucchini is over 90% water which explains its mellow flavour. In this recipe, the water is drawn out of the zucchini first and then cooked until it evaporates, leaving us with a sweet, earthy, slightly-floral zucchini jam. When combined with the starchy pasta cooking water, it combines to become a silky, lightly creamy sauce.

This dish is endlessly adaptable. Zucchini needs acid to bring out its earthy essence, but you also substitute with red wine vinegar for a similarly fresh but more tart finish, with an extra hint of sweetness. The ricotta adds a vital creaminess which balances the earthy tones of the zucchini, but it is interchangeable with mascarpone or tangy crème fraiche. For a sharper finish, opt for grated parmesan or pecorino in place of the creamy soft cheese. For vegans, substitute with cashew cream or your favourite non-dairy ricotta.

This dish can be enjoyed either warm or at room temperature, making this a perfect prep-ahead dish for entertaining or a great transportable meal to enjoy outdoors during the final days of summer.

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4-5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large eschalot or small brown onion, finely diced

6 medium zucchini (about 1.2kg), trimmed and chopped into 1cm dice

8 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

sea salt and black pepper

500g (about 1 pound) short pasta such as large spirals, shells or rigatoni

¼ cup lemon juice (from 1 large lemon), plus more to serve

1 teaspoon red chilli flakes, plus more to serve

250g (1 cup) whole milk ricotta cheese

Zest of 1 large lemon

2-3 tablespoon toasted pine nuts

handful of basil leaves, torn

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1. Place a large pot or dutch oven on medium-high flame and heat until it is hot, about 1 minute. Add 2 tablespoons of olive oil, along with the eschalot or onion and stir for 1 minute until fragrant and starting to soften. Toss in the zucchini and garlic and season with about 2 teaspoons of sea salt and a big pinch of black pepper. Cook for 12-15 minutes, stirring often, until zucchini has broken down.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and add the pasta. Cook for 3 minutes less than package instructions - for example, my pasta package instructions said to cook 9-11 minutes and I cooked for 6 minutes – until the pasta is softened but not quite al dente.

3. After 12-15 minutes, the zucchini the flesh will have mostly ‘melted’. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook for another 5 minutes, until thick and jammy.

4. When the pasta is ready, using a slotted spoon or spider ladle, drag the pasta into the pot with the zucchini, add 2 cups of the pasta cooking water, lemon juice, chilli flakes and season with another 1 teaspoon of sea salt. Toss for 2-3 minutes, until the pasta is coated with the jammy zucchini sauce. Add half the ricotta, lemon zest and another 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil, and toss again to distribute evenly. Taste to make sure you are happy with the flavour – add more sea salt and black pepper, if needed.

5. To serve, top with remaining ricotta, pine nuts and basil leaves and squeeze over more lemon juice. Serve warm or at room temperature.