Heat the oven to 190C (170C fan)/375F/gas 5.

Make the pastry by rubbing 100g cold, diced butter into the flour until it resembles crumbs. Add the ricotta and some salt, then bring everything into a soft ball. Cover and chill for 45 minutes.

In a frying pan on a medium heat, melt the remaining butter and the oil until foaming, then add the pancetta, if using, onion, cabbage, apple and a good pinch of salt.

Cook, stirring, until everything has collapsed and is just starting to soften – remember, it will cook more in the oven.

Taste, then add the sage, chestnuts, goat’s cheese, if using, some salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper.

Butter and flour a 26cm round tin and put a flat baking tray in the oven to heat up – this is important, so the pie bakes properly.

Cut the dough into two uneven pieces, one twice the size of the other.

On a floured work surface, roll out the larger piece into a circle big enough to line the tin, come all the way up the sides and leave some overhang. Lift the dough into the tin, mending any rips with your fingers, then add the cabbage filling.

Roll the smaller piece of dough into a disc the size of the tin, and place on top of the filling. Using wet fingertips, press all around the edges to make a firm seal.

Prick or slash the centre of the tart, paint with beaten egg or milk, place on the hot baking tray and slide into the oven for 45 minutes, until golden. Leave to cool a little before turning out and serving warm or at room temperature.