Cut the peaches into chunky wedges, scatter with the sugar and salt, then leave to sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes.

Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/gas 7, and grease a baking dish just large enough to hold all the fruit in a single layer.

Grate or dice the 100g butter for the topping and put it in the freezer.

Drain the juice from the steeped peaches and reserve.

Arrange the drained peaches in the base of the rimmed baking dish.

Put the cornflour in a small bowl, stir in two tablespoons of the reserved peach juice, plus the lemon juice and almond extract, if using, until dissolved, then toss this mix and the nutmeg with the peaches.

Top with the diced butter.

Put the peach dish on a rimmed baking tray, pop the lot in the oven and bake for 10-15 minutes, until the juices are bubbling.

Meanwhile, put the flour, caster sugar, salt and baking powder for the topping in a large bowl.

Add the frozen grated butter, toss to coat, then rub in with your fingertips just until the mix resembles coarse crumbs with visible pieces of butter still in there – it shouldn’t be fully rubbed in.

Once the peaches are bubbling, turn down the oven to 200 (180C fan)/gas 6 and stir the buttermilk into the flour to make a wet, shaggy dough.

Dollop this on top of the fruit, leaving spaces between the blobs for them to expand.

Top with a sprinkling of demerara sugar and bake for another 30-35 minutes, until golden.

Remove, leave to cool for at least 15 minutes, then serve with ice-cream.