Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions, then drain and rinse well under cold running water to stop them sticking together.

Bring a pan of water to a boil, drop in the prawns, one of the shallots and a star anise, if you have one, and simmer gently for three to four minutes, until the prawns are just turning pink. Turn off the heat and leave the prawns to cool in the stock. Once cool, peel the prawns – freeze the shells and stock, to make soup at a later date.

Meanwhile, make the dressing. Wash the coriander stems under cold water, then roughly chop. Put them in a pestle with the salt, ginger, three of the garlic cloves and four of the chillies, pound to a paste, then taste: it should be spicy and salty. Pound in another garlic clove and more chillies if you like things more spicy, and bear in mind that much of the heat will vanish once the noodles are dressed. Add the sugar and five tablespoons of the lime juice, and pound until the sugar dissolves. Stir in the fish sauce and sesame oil, taste again, then adjust as necessary. You’re looking for a rich, rounded, irresistible flavour.

When you are ready to serve, put all the salad ingredients bar a quarter of the peanuts in a bowl and toss. Depending on the size of the prawns, add them whole or chop into two to three pieces. Pour over the dressing, toss again and taste. Adjust the balance of flavours again, scatter over the reserved peanuts and serve with your favourite chilli oil on the side.