Peel off the skin from the fresh mushroom caps and then slice them into 1–2cm thick slices.

For the pasta, bring 4–5 litres water to the boil in a large cooking pot and add a fistful of salt.

Add the dried porcini, if using, as the water warms up, then fish out with a slotted spoon after 10 minutes and discard.

Meanwhile, cook the fresh mushrooms in batches. Use a large, wide pan that is big enough to hold the cooked pasta as well as all the mushrooms and sauce.

Place it over a medium heat and add a glug (about 40ml) of extra virgin olive oil.

When hot, add a layer of mushroom slices and sear until golden, then turn and fry on the other side until golden.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the mushrooms to a plate; set aside.

Add another glug of oil and fry the next batch; repeat as necessary.

Once all the mushrooms are seared, chop them into 5mm–1cm pieces and set aside.

Add the garlic and rosemary to the same pan (with a little more oil if needed) and fry over a medium heat until the garlic is starting to colour, then add the chopped mushrooms and stir.

Take off the heat and add the crème fraîche, chopped parsley and half a mug (about 120ml) of the seasoned pasta water.

Stir to bring the sauce together then season generously with salt and pepper.

Loosen the pasta bundles through your fingers so they won’t stick together as they cook.

Drop the pappardelle into the boiling water and cook for about 1–1½ minutes.

Drain as soon as it’s ready, keeping two mugs of pasta water.

Transfer the pasta to the mushroom sauce and stir over a low-medium heat until nicely combined, adding small splashes of the reserved pasta water to loosen if necessary.

If you’re feeling naughty, add the butter, too.

Taste to check the seasoning, adding salt and/or pepper if required.

Divide between hot plates and finish with a generous sprinkling of grated Parmesan.

Eat straight away. Peppery leaves, such as watercress or rocket dressed in lemon oil, would be most welcome on the side.