For the best results, use in-season, ripe peaches here. A ripe peach will be fragrant and yield slightly when pressed with your thumb. We like to use freestone peaches, if they're available, because they're easier to prepare. Don't use cooking Marsala in this recipe—use a drinking-quality Marsala instead. Other sweet wines such as moscato and port can be substituted for the Marsala, if desired. Note that depending on the type of bowl you use, the timing of the zabaglione will vary by several minutes. The finished zabaglione should have the texture of soft whipped cream.

Gently toss peaches, sugar, Marsala, vanilla, and salt together in bowl. Let sit for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Set colander in medium bowl. Transfer peach mixture to colander and let drain for 2 minutes; reserve accumulated peach liquid.

Remove colander from bowl and whisk egg yolks into accumulated peach liquid. Set bowl with egg yolk mixture over large saucepan with 1 inch of barely simmering water (water should not touch bottom of bowl).

Cook, whisking constantly, until zabaglione is thickened to point where ribbons sit on top of mixture when drizzled from whisk and mixture registers 165 to 170 degrees, 10 to 15 minutes for metal bowl or about 20 minutes for glass bowl.

Arrange peaches in single layer in shallow 1½-quart gratin dish. Spoon zabaglione over peaches to cover completely.

FOR A BROILER: Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Broil until top is well browned, 30 to 60 seconds.

FOR A BLOWTORCH: Ignite torch and continuously sweep flame above zabaglione until well browned, about 2 minutes.

Serve immediately.

It's in the (Za)bag(lione)