Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 275 degrees.

Toss 2 pounds 85 percent lean ground beef with 2 tablespoons water, 1½ teaspoons table salt, and ¾ teaspoon baking soda in bowl until thoroughly combined. Set aside for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, stem and seed 6 dried ancho chiles and tear into 1-inch pieces. Place chiles in Dutch oven set over medium-high heat and toast, stirring frequently, until fragrant, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to food processor and let cool.

Add 1 ounce crushed tortilla chips, 2 tablespoons ground cumin, 1 tablespoon paprika, 1 tablespoon garlic powder, 1 tablespoon ground coriander, 2 teaspoons dried oregano, ½ teaspoon dried thyme, and 2 teaspoons pepper to food processor with anchos and process until finely ground, about 2 minutes. Transfer mixture to bowl.

Process 1 can whole peeled tomatoes and their juice in now-empty workbowl until smooth, about 30 seconds.

Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in now-empty pot over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add 1 finely chopped onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 4 to 6 minutes.

Add 3 minced garlic cloves and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add beef and cook, stirring with wooden spoon to break meat up into ¼-inch pieces, until beef is browned and fond begins to form on pot bottom, 12 to 14 minutes.

Add ancho mixture and 1 to 2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chiles; cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add remaining 2 cups water, 1 can pinto beans and their liquid, 2 teaspoons sugar, and tomato puree. Bring to boil, scraping bottom of pot to loosen any browned bits.

Cover, transfer to oven, and cook until meat is tender and chili is slightly thickened, 1½ to 2 hours, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.

Remove chili from oven and let stand, uncovered, for 10 minutes.

Stir in any fat that has risen to top of chili, then add 2 tablespoons cider vinegar and season with salt to taste.

Serve, passing lime wedges, coarsely chopped cilantro, and chopped red onion separately.