Position oven racks in the top and lower thirds of oven and heat oven to 325°F.

Outline four 8-inch circles on individual pieces of parchment paper. Turn each sheet of parchment over so your ink or pencil lines don’t seep into the macaroon, place each piece of parchment paper on large baking sheets, and very lightly coat each piece of parchment with oil or butter.

Place hazelnuts, 1 cup sugar and salt in a food processor and blend until finely ground.

Using electric mixer, beat egg whites in large, dry bowl with clean beaters (or a whisk attachment) until soft peaks form.

Drizzle in vanilla extract, then slowly add remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Beat until stiff but not dry.

Fold nut mixture into egg whites in ⅓ increments (i.e. a little at a time so it doesn’t overtake the fluffy egg whites). Spread ¼ of macaroon batter evenly within each circle, filling completely.

Bake macaroon layers until golden and dry to the touch — this takes 20 to 23 minutes in my oven.

Cool macaroons on their sheets on a cooling rack. You can speed this along by placing them for five minutes each in your freezer.

While meringues cool, heat half of chocolate, water, and coffee (if using) in a small heavy saucepan over moderately low heat, stirring until smooth.

Off the heat, stir in second half of chocolate chunks until melted, which should also cool the mixture to lukewarm. Spread chocolate evenly over tops of meringue rounds; it will be just a thin slick on each.

Cool until chocolate is set, a process that could take a few hours at room temperature or, again, could be hastened along by resting each disc in your freezer for five minutes, or until firm.

Beat cream with sugar and liqueur or vanilla in a bowl with cleaned beaters until it holds stiff peaks.

Gently peel the parchment off the back of each macaroon round. Arrange your first disc on your cake serving plate.

Spread ⅓ cup whipped cream over it. Repeat with second and third macaroon rounds, then top with final round.

Frost top and side of torte with whipped cream.

If desired, use a vegetable peeler to scrape away curls from a chocolate bar for decoration. Remove waxed paper strips if you used them, and serve immediately or up to a day or two layer. Store in fridge.