Char the aromatics and toast the spices: place the unpeeled shallots (3) and ginger piece (3 to 4 inches) cut side down in a dry skillet or under the broiler until edges are blackened; meanwhile dry-toast 3 star anise, 2 cinnamon sticks, 6 whole cloves, 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, 3 green cardamom pods and 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns in the same pan until fragrant—that smell is everything.

Build the broth: put the whole chicken (3 to 4 lb) or 2 lb bone-in pieces into a large pot with 12 cups water, add the charred shallots and ginger plus the toasted spices (use a spice bag or tie them in cheesecloth so you can remove later). Bring to a gentle boil, then lower to a simmer and skim off foam and impurities with a slotted spoon.

Simmer or pressure cook: simmer gently 45 to 60 minutes until chicken is cooked and tender, skimming occasionally. Or, for Instant Pot, cook on high pressure 20 to 25 minutes then natural release 10 to 15 minutes. Don’t boil hard or you’ll cloud the broth.

Remove chicken and strain: take the chicken out, set aside to cool a bit; strain the broth through a fine mesh sieve and discard solids. If you want a clearer broth, let it settle in the fridge for an hour and scoop off the fat from the top.

Season the broth: return strained broth to pot, add 4 tablespoons fish sauce, 1 teaspoon granulated sugar (or piece rock sugar) and 1 to 2 teaspoons salt; simmer 5 more minutes and taste, adjust fish sauce or salt as needed. Fish sauce is the main seasoning so add slowly.

Shred the chicken: remove skin and bones, shred the meat into bite sized pieces with two forks. You can shred some dark meat and white meat for best texture.

Prepare the noodles and aromatics: cook 12 ounces dried flat rice noodles per package instructions—usually soak in hot water or briefly blanch until just tender, then drain and rinse with cold water so they don’t get gluey. Slice 4 scallions thin, chop cilantro, pick leaves from a bunch of Thai basil, rinse 2 cups bean sprouts and thinly slice 2 fresh chiles; cut 2 limes into wedges.

Assemble the bowls: divide noodles among bowls, top with shredded chicken, spoon hot broth over to heat everything through. Sprinkle sliced scallions and cilantro, tuck basil leaves and bean sprouts on the side, add sliced chiles and a lime wedge.

Serve with condiments and tips: pass hoisin and sriracha at the table; squeeze lime and add sauces to taste. If broth seems weak heat it and add a little more fish sauce or a pinch of sugar. Leftover broth keeps 3 to 4 days in the fridge or freezes well, just defat after chilling and reheat gently.