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Bring the new potatoes or baby potatoes to a boil and simmer for 15–18 minutes, until fully cooked through. Use a fork to make sure they’re tender.
While the potatoes cook, warm a pan over medium heat with a drizzle of olive oil. Add the baby spinach, a sprinkle of salt, and 50g butter. Let the spinach wilt right down, it will reduce dramatically. Add the ground nutmeg and half the cracked black pepper. Once it’s soft and glossy, remove the spinach to a bowl along with all the cooking liquid.
In the same pan, add a little more olive oil and fry the bacon until crisp. Remove, roughly chop, and set aside (reserving a little for the top at the end).
When the potatoes are cooked, drain and mash them with a potato masher. Add the wilted spinach (with its buttery juices), the roughly chopped bacon, 25g butter, a pinch of ground white pepper, and a little finely grated sea salt. Combine everything gently until it’s creamy, green‑flecked and irresistible.
Transfer to your serving dish and finish with a knob of butter, the reserved crispy bacon, some fresh cracked black pepper, and a scattering of chopped chives.