Heat the flour in a wide, dry pan over a low heat for about five minutes, stirring regularly, and boil the kettle. Put the flour in a large bowl with the baking powder and salt, then pour in 125ml boiling water (I find it easier to do this by weight). Stir to make a dough, then add the oil and knead briefly until you have a smooth dough, bearing in mind it will be hot.

Leave the dough to cool for at least 10 minutes, then transfer it into a sturdy piping bag fitted with a star nozzle about 1½cm in diameter.

Line a baking tray with greaseproof paper, then pipe out churros about 12cm long on to it, snipping them off with scissors as you go. (At this point, if you like, you can cover and refrigerate the dough until you’re ready to cook.)

Mix the cinnamon and sugar and spread out on a plate, and/or mix the cocoa, cornflour and sugar in a heatproof jug and heat the milk in a small saucepan until it begins to steam. Pour enough of the hot milk on to the cocoa mix to make a loose paste, whisking all the time, then whisk it all into the milk pan. Heat until it thickens, then stir in the vanilla and cinnamon, taste, add more sugar if you think it needs it, and keep warm.

Pour enough oil into a fairly wide pan to fill it by no more than a third, then slowly heat it to about 180C (or until a cube of bread browns in about 20 seconds). Put a tray lined with kitchen paper or a cooling rack next to the hob.

Use tongs to pick up a churro and drop it gently into the hot oil. Add two or three more without overcrowding the pan and fry for three to four minutes, or until golden and crisp.

Drain on the kitchen paper or the rack, toss in the cinnamon sugar and serve immediately, with the hot chocolate if you’ve made it, while you get on with the next batch.