If roasting your eggplant, heat your oven to 425°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.

Cut tops off eggplant and cut into generous ¼-inch-thick slices. Arrange in one layer on baking sheets. Brush lightly with olive oil and season well with salt and pepper. Flip slices and repeat on the second side.

To roast: Transfer to oven and cook for 10 to 12 minutes on the first side, then flip each slice and roast for another 8 to 10 on the second, until browned on each side.

To grill: Grill over robust heat until dark marks appear on each side, about 8 minutes for the first side and 5 minutes for the second.

Set eggplant aside to cool.

While eggplant cools, make the sauce: Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a pot over medium, add minced garlic, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, and a pinch or three of red pepper flakes, and dried oregano. Cook for one minute.

Add tomatoes and stir. Cook at a simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

When the sauce is done, taste and add more seasoning, as needed. Ladle out 1 cup sauce and set it aside for serving.

In a bowl, combine ricotta, mozzarella, ¼ cup parmesan, lemon zest, about ½ teaspoon salt, and a few grinds of black pepper.

Place about 1 tablespoon at the end of each full-sized slice of cooked eggplant, roll into a cigar. Place each roll in prepared sauce, seam side down.

Brush tops of eggplant rolls lightly with olive oil and bake uncovered approximately 30 minutes, until bubbly around the edges and browned on top.

Squeeze lemon juice over the top and scatter with basil leaves before serving. Serve hot, with reserved sauce and additional grated parmesan cheese, if desired.