Soak dried shiitake and konbu in 180 milliliters water overnight. Pour water, shiitake and kombu into a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove konbu and add bonito flakes. Lower heat and simmer for 5 minutes. While it’s still simmering, add ginger, garlic, salt, mirin, sugar, soy sauce, and vinegar and stir well to dissolve. Remove from heat and let cool. Strain into a clean glass jar and store in the fridge.

Soak dried shiitake and kelp in 500 milliliters of water overnight in the fridge. Clean chicken backs with cold running water to remove blood. In a large pot of boiling water, poach the cleaned chicken backs and wings until they become white (about 1 min). Drain the chicken and rinse well with running water. Place the chicken, shiitake and konbu water, and all vegetables in a large pot. Add additional cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat and remove konbu. Reduce heat to simmer and cook on low for two hours. Skim to remove scum carefully. Do not boil. Remove all vegetables except garlic and transfer to a pressure cooker. Add sake and cook under high pressure for one hour. Using an immersion blender, or a countertop blender, blend all contents, breaking the bones into small pieces the size of small pebbles (blend in batches if using a countertop blender). Then boil over high heat for 30 minutes to emulsify the broth. Strain the slurry broth with a fine-mesh strainer while it is hot. If not using immediately, cool and store in the fridge or freezer until you’re ready to assemble your ramen bowl.

Bring a large pot of water to a rapid boil. While the water is coming to a boil, cut off green tops of green onions and set aside. Slice white bottoms into long threads and toss with chili oil to coat. Cut tofu into thin ½-inch rectangles. Heat oil in a sauté pan until glistening. Add tofu pieces in a single layer and cook until golden brown. Flip and cook on other side until golden. Set aside. Tease apart noodles and add to boiling water. Cook for 1 minute 30 seconds. Use a timer so you don’t cook them too long! Drain in a strainer. Rinse briefly under running water to remove any excess starch. Heat 4-½ cups of broth to a near boil. Pour 2 tablespoons of shio ramen base into each ramen bowl. Pour 1-½ cups hot broth into each bowl and stir well. Taste. Add more shio base if you want a stronger flavor. Divide noodles between ramen bowls. Swish around slightly to loosen. Add tofu, egg, nori, wakame, green onion whites tossed with chili oil, and sprinkle some ground white pepper and crispy onions on top. Eat while it’s hot!