Use a sharp knife to score the fish 2–3 times per side from top to belly (not head to tail). Stuff the fish cavity with ginger, lime leaves, lemongrass and the white parts of the spring onion. Place the fish on an oval platter large enough to hold it (it’s fine if the head or tail hang over the sides). Place the platter into a steamer large enough to fit it, then steam for 12–16 minutes depending on size.

To make the spring onion oil, heat a saucepan over medium heat and warm the oil with a pinch of salt. Add the sliced green parts of the spring onion and cook 5–7 minutes, or until wilted and fragrant. Remove from the heat and stir through the peanuts.

To make the nước chấm, pound the sugar, ginger, garlic and chilli into a rough paste using a mortar and pestle. Stir through the hot water, stirring well to dissolve the sugar, then add the lime juice and fish sauce. Season to taste to your liking and adjust as needed.

To serve, place the fish on its steaming plate in the centre of the table. Spoon over ¾ of the spring onion oil and nuts, then serve the remaining oil and nuts in small bowls. Arrange the rice paper sheets, vegetables, fruit, herbs and noodles on platters for DIY assembly. To wrap, dunk the rice paper in hot water to soften, lay it on your hand and top with lettuce. Break off some fish and add whatever combination of fillings you like to the rice paper wrapper. Wrap, roll and dip in the nước chấm.