Begin by making the dipping sauces. To make the ponzu, mix everything well until the sugar dissolves. Keep in a jar in the fridge for up to a month (it won’t go off, but the flavours will start to fade)

To make the sesame dressing, tip the sesame seeds into a frying pan and set over a medium–high heat. Cook the sesame seeds, stirring constantly, for about 10 minutes until they are noticeably more aromatic and darker in colour. Remove from the pan and leave to cool.

Coarsely grind the sesame seeds in a mortar, food processor or spice mill, then add the remaining ingredients and stir until the sugar dissolves. Keep in the fridge for up to a week.

To make the hotpot, combine the stock, dashi, miso, mirin and dried chillies in a large hotpot or casserole dish (Dutch oven) set over a medium heat on a portable stove (if you have one) at the table and bring to a simmer.

Pile in the cabbage and beansprouts and cook for a few minutes until they have softened slightly.

Pile on as many gyoza as you can fit, then scatter over the red chilli, garlic, nira (garlic chives) and sesame seeds. Place a lid on the pot and boil for about 5 minutes until everything is steamed through.

Keep the pot at a simmer while eating, so everything is piping hot to the very end. Serve with the ponzu and sesame dressing in small, individual dishes on the side, for dipping.

When all the veg and gyoza have been eaten, stir the noodles or rice into the reduced broth and polish it off!