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Gather ingredients. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C).
Heat butter in a pot over medium heat. Add onions and sauté with a pinch of salt until translucent, about 5 minutes.
Add flour and cook, stirring, just to take off that starchy, raw edge, about 2 minutes.
Pour in heavy cream and whisk to combine. Whisk in milk. Cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until it just starts to simmer and thicken up.
Add 1 teaspoon salt, pepper, and cayenne. Grate in nutmeg.
Turn off heat. Stir in Worcestershire and fresh thyme leaves. Reserve until needed.
Cover the bottom of a deep 10x15-inch casserole dish with about 25% of the reserved sauce.
Add a layer of sliced potatoes, seasoning the tops with some of the remaining salt as desired; ladle over ⅓ of the sauce and sprinkle over ⅓ of the grated Cheddar cheese. Layer in ½ of the sliced ham.
Place another layer of sliced potatoes on top and season with salt. Ladle over ½ of the remaining sauce; repeat layering with Cheddar cheese and ham.
Place last layer of potatoes on top. Ladle over remaining sauce and spread out with a spatula. Sprinkle over remaining Cheddar cheese.
Bake uncovered in the preheated oven until browned, bubbling, and potatoes are very tender, about 1 ½ hours. Let cool for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.